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Post - 08/02/2012   - Hand Made Skis
I had never been skiing before or even held a pair of skis, but making a pair seemed like a fun idea. I was mainly inspired by a video of native Reindeer herders in Sweden, and also by my good Norwegian friend - Torjus (his website: http://livingprimitively.com/ )

One of the first things I learnt about skis is that they are not actually just flat pieces of wood with a bend at the end; they also have an overall bend meaning that the centre of the ski will stand off the ground slightly when not stood on (see picture on left). This bend serves to spread the weight of the user more evenly over thick snow, and instead of the centres of the skis dipping down into deep snow the skis just become flat. 

I used much the same tools as I would use to make a bow - A draw knife and shave horse; a hatchet, a large Farier's rasp and a cabinet scraper.

The wood is Ash wood. I split two billets from a large fresh log which some tree surgeons had left on a fire heap! I worked the wood while it was fresh as that makes the job a lot easier! Luckily the billets had an overall natural curve which I utilised. The only bends I needed to make were those for the ends.
To steam bend the ends I wrapped the wood in hessian fabric from an old sack, I then soaked this with water and wrapped the the lot with Turkey aluminium foil. I then supported this over a nice hot fire for perhaps 45 minutes (note how a log protects the unprotected wood from the heat. The pieces of wood on top of the foil are just holding a flap of foil down.) Its just like cooking a Salmon in foil really,  hehe.

 

 

 
Before wrapping the ends with hessian and foil, I had already rigged up some cord which would enable me to swiftly make the bend and hold it in shape; one loop tied to the top and another long length secured at the centre of the ski. When the wood had been steamed for long enough (perhaps 45mins), I could then quickly unwrap the wood, thread the long cord through the small loop at the top and then pull down forcefully to bend the wood and hold it in shape.

The rest of the work to do included:
-Chiselling out a rectangular slot hole through which I could secure the bindings
-Carving the decorative ends in a traditional Swedish style
- Applying pure Pine tar with a brush (made by 'Bickmores' as a horse hoof treatment, and purchased from the 'horse health' website)
-heating the tar and wood with a blow torch as it is applied helps to make it go into the wood better. Excess tar is rubbed off with a rag.
-Applying Bees wax to the undersides to make the skis glide better (without the tar and wax; snow would stick and clog the skis up.
-The final job was to then weave the Willow to make the bindings, these will ensure my feet are securely fastened to the skis. The Willow is soaked and twisted like a withy beforehand to make it more pliable.

Then it was just a case of waiting for some snow to have some real good fun!

100% satisfying!!

 

   
   
   



 

Post - 21/09/2011   - Birch bark containers

I recently made these two Birch bark pots, they are stitched differently to the way I have previously made containers; this is now my new favourite method. As well as being very decorative, the 'stepped' stitching ensures that the bark doesn't split along its grain, which would be likely if so many stitching holes were made right next to each other along the same line. Making stitching holes through two layers of bark also helps the bark not to split.

The container on the right is made from the bark of a dead tree. When stripping the bark from the logs the wood inside had actually started to rot away but the skeleton of bark was still good to use, that's because of all the natural tar it contains. the smaller container is made from fresh bark I managed to salvage from some logs left behind by tree surgeons. This bark is such a nice material, its a shame so much of it just ends up on peoples fire heap!

Some of the crafts I make are quite intricate, so for a change I thought I'd show you how to make a simple little bark box like this...

Strip your bark from felled or naturally fallen trees. The only tools you need to make this little box are a pen knife, a ruler, and something to score lines with.

The folds are simply held together by two stick pegs inserted through slots in the bark.

   
  Start by cleaning up the outside of the bark. removing any loose material. Pulling your thumb over the bark side-ways works well. Now cut the bark into a neat rectangle.  
   
  Carefully score the folding lines onto the bark as represented by the diagram. I used a bradawl for this job.  
   
  Fold the corners up Make four small slots ready to receive the pegs which hold the folds securely in shape.  

 

   
  Cut two sticks to length and shave them down thin. If they are a bit flexible that will help with the fitting. Insert the pegs on either side... job done! How simple and effective is that!  

Also see my tutorial on how to make other simple birch bark containers/ pots.. click here
And my step by step guide to making a Birch bark basket  Here

 

Post - 19/09/2011   - Primitive Trapping

Trapping is only something you'd do if you needed to feed yourself, it should then be carried out with much care and respect. However, it can be fun to learn how to lay traps with no real intention of actually catching anything; that's what I've been practicing today.... I find it fascinating how a few carefully prepared sticks can be assembled with a snare to create a very effective trap. The trap here on the right is a type of Rabbit snare. Many types of trap utilize a toggle which is held in place by another stick; when the stick is dislodged the toggle is released and up goes the noose. A trap like this can surprisingly be set to an extremely fine tolerance.

Of course, tracking skills and good knowledge of your prey's behaviours will also mean the the difference between success and failure; or the difference between a humane and inhumane catch.


Click images to enlarge

 

In primitive situations when you are using a snare made from natural fibres, the animal needs to be lifted off the ground to prevent it from biting through the snare line (or its leg) and escaping. This is done by attaching the snare to a springy branch, when the animal sets off the trigger mechanism, the noose tightens around its neck and the tensioned branch lifts the animal upwards. This tension also prevents any chance of the noose loosening.

Placing sticks either side of the trap and the animal trail guides the animal into the snare opening. There are other things that need to be thought about too, such as trying to make your trap as inconspicuous as possible; masking your scent (usually by smoking your snare and parts over a fire); and making as little disturbance to the animals trail so that it will not become suspicious... animals are more clever than you'd think!

 

Another 'neck hold' trap. This is another example of a toggle based snare with the main line under tension. The central stick would be baited in the middle. She snare is held up with tiny 'Y' shaped sticks. It should be easy to see how this works.  


A simple 'Eye' made from a section of naturally hollow Elder wood helps the snare to slip freely along.

Please respect my wishes and only use these traps in survival situations. Never leave a practice trap set!

 

 

Post - 17/09/2011   - Harry Potter Elder Wand

I'm not actually a big Harry Potter fan but I made this wand with the intent of selling it  :-)  I thought it might be an interesting item to show and share. I carved it from genuine Elder wood with just a normal Bushcraft knife. The Elder wand is said to be the most powerful wand there can be. You'll think I'm mad but the finished wand strangely did feel quite powerful in the hand. I guess the power of intent is quite strong and maybe wands could be used to direct your intent. We've all heard about the power of the mind; people using their mental power to stay strong and overcoming illness is a good example.

The knobbly sections are burnt with hot irons heated in the camp fire.


 

Post - 14/09/2011   - A New Kuksa Cup Carved

I recently finished carving a new Kuksa cup from Sycamore wood. This is now my number one drinking vessel. I use it all day every day. Water tastes so much better these days...

Click here to see my kuksa carving tutorial.

 

 

   

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